A NEW YEAR’S ROSE

This morning I discovered a rose blooming – in the garage.  We had moved our potted rose bushes into the garage to protect them from the unseasonably cold weather.  This is definitely the last rose of  2010.    Tomorrow is New Year’s Eve.

You love the roses – so do  I.   I wish

The sky would rain down roses, as they rain

From off the shaken bush.  Why will it not?

Then all the valley would be pink and white

And soft to tread on.  They would fall as light

As feathers, smelling sweet; and it would be

Like sleeping and like waking, all at once!

(Roses by George Eliot)

My very best  wishes for a positive New Year.

POT AU FEU DE CANARD AUX EPICES DOUCES … DUCK POT AU FEU WITH GENTLE SPICES

A GOOD COOK KNOWS HER CLASSICS!

If you truly want to become an accomplished cook watch those old Julie Child cooking shows.  Better still use  her books.   Master the cooking techniques of classic  French recipes.  Then  you can change the ingredients to create something at once new but familiar.

This is a faster-cooking, more delicately flavoured version of the beefy  pot au feu These days duck legs are easy to find.  Our local supermarket had then individually frozen.  So very convenient.  I am giving you a quick version of duck pot au feu.

For 4

4 uncooked duck legs

1 litre chicken stock

4, carrots shopped (not too small)

1 leek, green tops removed, chopped

1 parsnip, peeled and chopped about the same size as the carrots

150 g celery, chopped (around one large stock)

1 small onion, peeled and studded with 4-5 cloves

1/2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg

1 small cinnamon stick

salt and freshly ground pepper

In a large frying pan, brown the duck legs all over.  Don’t hurry this.  Brown them slowly, then carefully drain off the excess fat.  Pour this into a small container and freeze for future use.

Drain the dug legs on some kitchen paper to remove excess fat.

Pour the stock into a very large pan, add the vegetables and bring to the boil.  When boiling, add the spices and the duck legs.  Simmer for about 45 minutes, skimming off the fat as it rises to the surface.    If you have browned the duck legs long and slowly enough there should be very little fat.

When the duck is cooked, remove it from the cooking liquid and serve with the vegetables and stock alongside.  (You could also remove the vegetables and reduce the stock further to intensify its flavour.)

If you are cooking for two I suggest you keep all the ingredient amounts the same and just use two duck legs.  The vegetables are so delicious you may want to be a little greedy and enjoy more vegetables.  For your convenience I have included the recipe on the right side of this page.

CARAMELIZED SPICED CRANBERRY, GINGER AND PEAR CHUTNEY

This presents the ubiquitous cranberry jelly wobbling on the table, in a much better light.  The recipe is generous.  You might want to make half.  Or, freeze in portions to use with any kind of fowl.

1 cup (250 ml) sugar

3 tbsp (45 ml) water

1/2 onion, coarsely chopped

1 orange zest only finely chopped

1 cup (250 ml) orange juice

1/4 cup (50 ml) fresh ginger, finely chopped

1 1/2 pounds (750 g) fresh or frozen cranberries

3 cups (750 ml) pears, peeled and died

1/4 cup (75 ml)  whole grain mustard

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp (2 ml) nutmeg freshly grated

1 tsp (5 ml) chili powder

1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin

1/4 tsp (2 ml) cayenne pepper

Place sugar and water in a medium saucepan on medium heat until sugar dissolves and starts to caramelize.  Immediately stir in onion orange zest, orange juice ginger and cranberries.
Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes.  Add pears.  Cook for 10 more minutes, stirring occasionally.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.  Once cool, fold in mustard and spices.

Can be made up to a week ahead and is best made one or two days before serving.

CHRISTMAS BREAKFAST BREAD … PANETTONE

I have been making this Panettone recipe every Christmas for more than thirty years.  Our son,  Callum,  would not consider it Christmas unless this gorgeous bread appeared on the breakfast table December 25th.   Terry’s chocolate orange in his stocking is the other most have.  One year when I thought perhaps he had grown too old for this tradition I omitted it.  That will NEVER happen again.

If you have a stand mixer this bread is not difficult.  You must allow yourself time so start it early in the day.  Otherwise you’ll end up baking it at midnight, as did one year.  It did fill our home with a lovely fragrance on Christmas eve.

PANETTONE.  Make one very large loaf.

Make sure all ingredients are at room temperature

1/2 cup milk warmed

l envelope or 2   1/2 tsp yeast

3 2/3 cups flour

4 oz soft butter

1/2 tsp salt,

1/3 cup sugar

1 generous tsp finely grated lemon zest

2 tsp vanilla

1 tbs rum (optional)

3 whole eggs at room temperature

3 egg yolks at room temperature

1 cup diced candied orange and lime peel

A generous 1/2 cup dark raisins

A generous 1/2 cup of light raisins

Now the fun begins.  This is  bread that is not kneaded.  It’s all done in your mixing bowl of the stand mixer.

l.  Heat milk just to warm it.  Sprinkle in a little sugar then whisk in the yeast.  Let sit for around ten minutes until the yeast starts to foam.  Now add 2/3 cup of flour (from the 3 2/3 cups amount).  Stir well and cover tightly with plastic wrap and let raise at room temperature until almost tripled.  That’s around l hour.  The sponge may fall toward the end but don’t worry.

2.  About 15 minutes before your sponge is ready place the butter in your mixer with the paddle.  Beat until light, add the salt, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla and rum .  Continue to beat until fluffy , about five minutes.

The generous amount of vanilla colours the mixture.  Don’t worry this is how it should be.

3.  In a separate bowl whisk your eggs.  Beat 1/3 of the eggs into the butter mixture until smooth.   Important,  Use your lowest speed from now on because you’ll be assimilating the flour.  Beat in about l cup flour until fully incorporated.  Scrape bowl and paddle.  Repeat with the remaining eggs and flour in two batches beating well after each addition.

4. Now add the sponge and beat until dough is smooth and elastic (around 5 minutes).

5.  Finally beat in the candied peel and raisins.

6.  Scrape the dough into a buttered bowl (around 3 qt in size) and cover tightly with plastic wrap.  Let this lovely dough rise at room temperature until doubled in size.  About 2 hours.

6.  Meanwhile butter and flour a 9″ by 3″ spring-form pan.  Fold a very long strip of tin foil in half and butter and flour this.  Edge the spring-form pan with this collar of tinfoil to raise the sides of your pan.

7.  When your dough has doubled in size scrape it into your pan and cover loosely with a buttered plastic wrap.  Le rise about 1 hour or until your dough reaches the top edge of the pan.  Meanwhile preheat your oven to 375F.

8.  Discard the plastic wrap and bake your magnificent panettone in the middle of the oven for about twenty minutes or until well risen and deeply coloured.  Then cover loosely with tinfoil to prevent browning too much, and bake for almost 20-30 minutes longer, or until a thin knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.

9.  transfer to a rack and cool 5 minutes.  Then remove the side of the pan and slide off unto a rack.

Voila!  You are finished!  And you have just made the most delicious, delicate, fresh loaf of Panettone.  Now that was not difficult,  was it!

Merry Christmas and Merry Eating.

CRANBERRY BUCKLE WITH VANILLA CRUMB

This rich cranberry buckle is sweet and nicely tangy thanks to a trio of tart ingredients:  sour cream, cranberries and orange zest.  This red-jeweled delight would be perfect for Christmas breakfast.

CRANBERRY BUCKLE:

Baking time 45 to 50 minutes.  Serves 8 to 12!

1 tbsp unsalted butter at room temperature, for pan

1 3/4 cups (8 3/4 oz) all-purpose flour

2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp sea salt

1/2 cup (4 oz) unsalted butter

3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz) granulated sugar

zest of an orange

2 eggs

1 tb pure vanilla extract

1/2 cup (5 oz) sour cream

2 generous cups (8 oz) cranberries, fresh or frozen

Preheat the oven to 350F   Butter a 9 inch square baking pan

Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together in a bowl.  Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, sugar and orange zest together.
Add The eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition, then stir in the vanilla.  Stir in the flour mixture in three additions alternating with the sour cream in two additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally.  Fold in l cup of the cranberries.

spread the mixture into the prepared pan.  Distribute the remaining l cup cranberries over the cake and sprinkle the crumb topping over the cranberries.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes  or until lightly golden and firm on top.

STORAGE;  Wrapped in plastic wrap, this cake will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

VANILLA CRUMB

Makes 2 cups

l cup (5 oz) all-purpose flour

3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz) granulated sugar

1/4 cup packed (1 7/8 oz) light brown sugar

1/4 tsp fine sea salt

1/2 cup (4 oz) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 inch cubes

1 tbs pure vanilla

This crumb topping can be used for any fruit crisp.  Double or even triple the recipe and keep the extra in the freezer.  You can make a crisp on the spur of the moment.

Combine the flour, sugars, salt and butter in the bowl of a food processor or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment.  If using a food processor, pulse until the mixture is the texture of coarse crumbs/.
With a stand mixer, combine on low-speed,  until the texture of coarse crumbs.  Drizzle the vanilla over the mixture and either pulse or mix briefly to distribute the vanilla

Storage:  Use this topping immediate, or store it in a plastic bag in the freezer for up to 3 months.

PORK WITH SAGE AND CAPERS

This could be an alternative to roast turkey perhaps on New Year’s Day.  The sage infused dressing gives you that familiar aroma of sage.   You can do much of the initial preparation ahead of time

This is a recipe that turns pork tenderloins(fillets) into an elegant and delicious main course.  The tenderloin is split and stuffed with a fragrant stuffing.  It is important you use fresh sage.  Fresh sage in itself is sublime.  Dried and put into a little bottle sitting on the supermarket shelf, it becomes bitter and harsh.  Fortunately even in the darkest days of winter most supermarkets carry fresh herbs.      You can use fresh sage many different ways.  Try frying them briefly in butter to serve along with your favorite dish.  They do have a good shelf in your refrigerator.

PORK WITH SAGE AND CAPERS  (serves 6 to 8)

25 G(1 OZ) 1/2 TB UNSALTED BUTTER

2 TBS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 ONION FINELY CHOPPED

100 g (3 1/2 oz / 1  1/4 cups) fresh white breadcrumb s (or even dried if you wish.  I find either works just fine.  I actually prefer the dry)

2 tsp chopped sage (don’t be shy here, be generous with your seasoning)

1 tbsp parsley chopped (any kind)

2 tsp grated lemon zest

3 tbs, rinsed and drained capers

1 egg

2 large (about 500 g/ 1 lb ) each

8 large thin slices bacon

2 tsp all-purpose flour

100 ml (3 1/2 oz) dry vermouth

315 ml (10 fl oz/ 1 1/4 cups) chicken or vegetable stock

8 whole, extra sage leaves to garnish

Preheat the oven to 170C (325f F/gas 3)  Heat the butter and l tbsp of the oil in a frying pan  Add the onion. sprinkle with a little salt) and saute for about 5 minutes until translucent.

Put the breadcrumbs, sage, parsley, lemon zest, the cooked onion and 2 tbs capers in a bowl.  Add the egg, season well (lots of ground pepper here plus salt;) and mix to combine.

Using a sharp knife, split each pork fillet in half lengthways, taking care not to cut all the way through, and open out.  Spread the stuffing (half) down the length and pat firmly into place.

Tie with string at regular intervals.

Heat a large saute pan, add a little olive oil,  and quickly brown each side of the pork (about 3-5 minutes).

Remove from pan and place in your roasting pan.  Wrap bacon around each fillet.  Insert meat thermometer and roast to 145F.  The juices should run clear.  Remove from baking dish and tent with tinfoil.

Place the baking dish on the stove top, and add the flour and stir in well.  Add the vermouth (or white wine) and allow to bubble for l minute or so.  Add the stock and whisk while cooking to remove all the lumps.  Simmer for about 5 minutes and then add the remaining capers to the sauce.

In a small saucepan, heat the remaining oil and when very hot, fry the sage leaves until crisp.  Drain on paper towels.

Slice the pork into 2 cm(3/4 inch) slices.  Spoon a little sauce over the pork and serve each portion with fried sage leaves.

CHEFS NOTES:  Left over pork makes wonderful sandwiches.  This recipe can easily be halved.  Use just  one tenderloin.  You could even cut the tenderloin in half, and cut the very small amount for two people.  This recipe is very forgiving.  Just be sure to put lots of seasoning in the dressing.  It is what makes this dish outstanding.

WHO’S UNDER MY CHRISTMAS TREE

Mama san

a very old sailor doll

elegant dolls with their Christmas mouse

a knitted golly dolly

a satin frog playing a golden lute

a cherished  dog.

Who’s under your Christmas Tree?

I MET MY DREAM IN PARIS

That morning in Paris started out silvery gray.   Even on a cloudy morning Paris shimmers with a brilliance  the result of centuries of admiration.  We were in the 6th Arrondissement,  the birthplace of the existential movement, and an area choice for the hippest art galleries and bookshops.    The sun came out as we strolled the cobbled streets, popping into a shop that sold nothing but olives.  then into that most hallowed of  shops , Valette for  Foie Gras.

Oh the joy of nibbling your way through  the Raspail Organic Market.  We devoured piping hot potato-onion and carrot-wheat galettes  and filled our shopping basket with jewel like fruit.

Then I met my dream.  We walked into a shop  warm with delicious cooking aromas.  Gleaming alters to cooking beckoned me.  I cross the creaking  worn wood floor and caressed  La Cornue,  the epitome of stoves.       With an immaculate clad chef at my side  I cooked on this marvelous stove.  I made bechamel sauce.   Not for me a Viking,  an Imperial or a Wolf, or even an Aga.  The stove of my dreams was La Cornue.

It called to me.   It would be the heart of my dream kitchen.  It would be the soul of wonderful food memories.    I left clutching brochures to cherish.  Perhaps one day I would have my La Cornue with my name engraved on it.  (Yes, when you order a La Cornue stove they build it just for you, and then engrave it. )

LA CORNUE  , 18 rue Nabillon,   the dream I met in Paris.

A COOKBOOK TO CURL UP AND READ DURING THE HOLIDAYS

THE ESSENTIAL NEW YORK TIMES  COOK  BOOK

I opened  this book early this morning.  I had made my French presse coffee, plumped the pillows,  and as part of my morning ritual started reading .  My coffee grew cold as I became completely engrossed in this highly personal, fascinating and beautiful record of  America’s culinary past.  The New York Times has published recipes for 150 .  This is the cookbook for those who grew up in the kitchen with Craig Claiborne, for curious cooks who want to serve a nineteenth-century recipe to their friend, and for the new cook who needs a book that spells out all the basics.  This cookbook will serve as a lifelong companion in your kitchen.

WINTER SOLSTICE AND A FULL LUNAR ECLIPSE!

T omorrow I will be lighting many candles in honour of the winter solstice.

Tonight we are hoping for a clear evening for a full lunar eclipse.    This will be a union that hasn’t been seen in 456 years.

Tonight we will dance in the moonlight and pour a celebration flute of champagne to honour this day.

Happy Winter Solstice.